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Using Ferns in Victorian-Style Garden Planting

The Victorian passion for ferns — known as pteridomania — turned many a shaded British garden into a verdant, almost prehistoric grotto. Far from being a fleeting fashion, the fern craze left us a template for planting that works beautifully in our damp, dimly lit corners today. By combining ferns with hostas, mosses and a well-built stumpery, you can recreate that lush, historic atmosphere without a single piece of Victorian glassware.

The Victorian Fern Craze and Why It Still Works

In the 1840s and 1850s, British gardeners went mad for ferns. Collectors scoured Welsh ravines and Scottish glens for rare specimens, while Wardian cases brought delicate filmy ferns into suburban parlours. Outdoors, the stumpery became the height of fashion: a deliberate arrangement of upturned tree stumps and roots, planted with ferns and moss, designed to look ancient and romantic. The Victorians understood something we often forget — that shade is not a problem to be solved, but a mood to be celebrated. A north-facing border or a spot under a mature oak can feel gloomy when planted with sun-lovers, yet utterly magical when filled with fronds that unfurl like green fountains. The key is to choose the right ferns for your conditions and to layer them as the Victorians did, with low mosses, bold hostas and a few early-flowering woodland bulbs.

Choosing Ferns for British Shade

Not all ferns want the same treatment. For most British gardens, start with these reliable performers:

  • Male fern (Dryopteris filix-mas) — tough, deciduous, tolerates dry shade once established. A superb backbone for any stumpery.
  • Lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina) — soft, lacy fronds in fresh green. Prefers moist, humus-rich soil and dappled shade.
  • Soft shield fern (Polystichum setiferum) — evergreen, shuttlecock-shaped, with finely divided fronds. Excellent for winter structure.
  • Hard fern (Blechnum spicant) — distinctive dimorphic fronds: sterile ones lie flat, fertile ones stand upright. Loves acid, damp shade.
  • Hart's tongue fern (Asplenium scolopendrium) — strappy, undulating evergreen leaves. Ideal for lime-rich soil and deep shade.

Plant in spring or autumn, adding leaf mould or well-rotted garden compost. Avoid burying the crown — ferns resent being smothered. Space them according to their eventual spread, which is usually 45–90 cm for the species above.

Building a Victorian Stumpery

A stumpery is simply a mound or bank of tree stumps and logs, arranged with their roots facing upwards or sideways to create crevices. Oak, beech and lime are traditional choices because they rot slowly and hold their shape. Choose a shaded site — north or east-facing is ideal — and dig a shallow trench to seat the largest stumps. Pack the gaps with a mix of leaf mould, garden compost and a little loam. Then plant ferns directly into the pockets, tucking small specimens like maidenhair spleenwort (Asplenium trichomanes) into narrow fissures. Mosses will colonise naturally, but you can speed things up by blending chopped moss with water and a spoonful of natural yoghurt, then painting it onto damp wood. Keep the whole structure well watered for the first season. The result is a sculptural, wildlife-friendly feature that looks centuries old within a year or two.

Companion Planting: Hostas, Mosses and Woodland Bulbs

Ferns alone can look a little uniform. The Victorians mixed them with bold-leaved plants and low carpets to create contrast. Hostas are perfect partners — try Hosta sieboldiana for its huge, corrugated, blue-green leaves, or Hosta fortunei for variegated interest. Plant them among your ferns so their broad foliage sets off the delicate fronds. For ground cover, encourage native mosses such as Hypnum cupressiforme and Polytrichum commune; they knit the stumpery together and keep moisture in the soil. Add drifts of woodland bulbs for early colour: snowdrops, native bluebells, wood anemones and winter aconites will all naturalise happily in the same shade. Avoid vigorous thugs like ivy or barren strawberry, which will smother smaller ferns. A simple rule: for every three ferns, plant one hosta and one patch of moss or bulbs.

Care and Maintenance for a Lush Victorian Look

Victorian-style planting should look effortless, but it needs a little attention. Water newly planted ferns and hostas regularly for their first summer — even shade plants struggle in dry spells. Apply a mulch of leaf mould each autumn to mimic the deep woodland floor. In late winter, cut back old fern fronds before the new croziers emerge, but leave evergreen species like hart's tongue and soft shield fern alone until they look tatty. Divide congested clumps every three to four years in early spring. Slugs are the main enemy of hostas and young fern fronds; set beer traps or encourage frogs and ground beetles by leaving a few damp, dark corners undisturbed. Finally, resist the urge to tidy too much. A few fallen leaves and a bit of natural decay are exactly what gives a Victorian stumpery its timeless, mossy charm — and your ferns will thank you for it.

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James Holloway

The Autumn Fern shares practical, down-to-earth guidance on shade gardening, ferns and woodland plants for british gardens for readers across the UK.

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Thomas Bramley